Revival of near-extinct handloom traditions, gaps in illustration, and issues over authenticity emerged as key themes at a fireplace dialog at Bharat Tex 2026 on Thursday.
Growth Commissioner (Handlooms) M. Beena and writer and handloom connoisseur Priyambada Jayakumar mentioned three traditions introduced again by way of direct authorities intervention – Tangaliya from Gujarat, Awadh Jamdani from Uttar Pradesh, and Telangana’s GI-tagged Siddipet Gollabhama saree.
Tangaliya, they famous, had dwindled to a single surviving weaving household earlier than revival efforts started. Awadh Jamdani, a white-on-white silk weave, stays distinct from Bengal’s Dhakai Jamdani, whereas the Siddipet Gollabhama saree is thought for its woven milkmaid motifs.
Drawing from these examples, Ms. Beena highlighted a structural imbalance within the sector. Whereas handloom work is concentrated in marginalised rural communities and largely carried out by ladies, recognition and visibility stay skewed.
“Ladies are the spine of India’s handloom sector, however they’re hardly ever the face of it,” she stated, including that ladies have to be enabled not solely to weave but additionally to design, procure, market and promote their merchandise.
Wanting forward, Ms. Beena stated the problem lies in aligning handloom with altering shopper behaviour. Whereas youthful consumers might not be buying sarees, they’re conscious of sustainability. Positioning handloom as a flexible, low-carbon material adaptable to merchandise similar to shirts and stoles is vital, she stated, pointing to youth-led start-ups already working on this house.
Reflecting on her interactions with artisans, Ms. Jayakumar recalled a 22-year-old Tangaliya weaver trying to revive a fading craft. “That takes a leap of religion and actual braveness,” she stated, including that the passion amongst weavers to see their work regain visibility was placing.
She additionally famous that India, regardless of its long-standing textile heritage, had regularly shifted to being a provider within the world worth chain. Efforts now are geared toward restoring each visibility and worth to those traditions, she stated.
Considerations over imitation merchandise being offered as handloom have been raised by the viewers. Ms. Beena stated the Handloom Mark and barcoding system have been launched to handle this, and that counterfeiting them is a punishable offence. She, nevertheless, acknowledged that stronger authentication mechanisms are wanted and stated these are being labored on. Shopper consciousness, she added, stays the first safeguard for now.
Printed – July 17, 2026 07:25 pm IST
